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Open Lab Idaho Forums 2015-11-24T03:48:26-06:00 https://forums.openlabidaho.org/feed.php?f=10 2015-11-24T03:48:26-06:00 2015-11-24T03:48:26-06:00 https://forums.openlabidaho.org/viewtopic.php?t=436&p=3184#p3184 <![CDATA[3D Printing / RepRap • Re: 3D printed circuit - interesting idea]]>
But if you want them to make more permanent circuits, you could print out some larger boards that have trace channels that are separated by wider walls so that it is easier to fill them without overflow and then no sanding would be necessary.

Like most water based paints, when put on thick, the Cupro-Cote paint dries on the outside first and leaves the inside gummy for many hours. You really do have to wait overnight for the components to be held fast.

Another possibility you could consider, would be to draw a schematic on a piece of paper or cardboard and have them fill in the lines with paint and and then glue in components where the symbols are. This paint is very conductive and even a thin flat painted line is very conductive. It does dry faster on paper

It also sticks well to almost anything. You could draw a schematic on a piece of Plexiglas and they could fill in the lines and make transparent circuits.

Statistics: Posted by 3dtech — Tue Nov 24, 2015 3:48 am


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2015-11-24T03:42:01-06:00 2015-11-24T03:42:01-06:00 https://forums.openlabidaho.org/viewtopic.php?t=487&p=3183#p3183 <![CDATA[3D Printing / RepRap • Re: Yup, building a 3D printer, a very rigid one.]]> Statistics: Posted by 3dtech — Tue Nov 24, 2015 3:42 am


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2015-08-27T21:38:53-06:00 2015-08-27T21:38:53-06:00 https://forums.openlabidaho.org/viewtopic.php?t=491&p=3170#p3170 <![CDATA[3D Printing / RepRap • Re: How much to print this hot end mount?]]>
https://www.flickr.com/photos/27748767@ ... 1960053516

Now that this part is together, I see what I've forgotten. I need a way to mount a ball screw nut to this to move it. That part will need to wait until I get some ball screws. :roll:

I'll most likely make a piece that mounts with the upper two bolts, which will require using longer bolts. Then once the printer is operational I might make a one piece mount for both the hot end and ball nut.

Statistics: Posted by Galane — Thu Aug 27, 2015 9:38 pm


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2015-06-26T00:51:38-06:00 2015-06-26T00:51:38-06:00 https://forums.openlabidaho.org/viewtopic.php?t=491&p=3163#p3163 <![CDATA[3D Printing / RepRap • How much to print this hot end mount?]]>
Size of the base is supposed to be 50x50mm with the holes 35x35mm spacing. If this works it would fit any block with a 35mm square hole pattern. :)

Statistics: Posted by Galane — Fri Jun 26, 2015 12:51 am


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2015-05-29T18:35:12-06:00 2015-05-29T18:35:12-06:00 https://forums.openlabidaho.org/viewtopic.php?t=487&p=3159#p3159 <![CDATA[3D Printing / RepRap • Re: Yup, building a 3D printer, a very rigid one.]]> Statistics: Posted by Galane — Fri May 29, 2015 6:35 pm


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2015-05-29T15:24:27-06:00 2015-05-29T15:24:27-06:00 https://forums.openlabidaho.org/viewtopic.php?t=487&p=3158#p3158 <![CDATA[3D Printing / RepRap • Re: Yup, building a 3D printer, a very rigid one.]]> The side posts are 24" above the top of the square frame at the bottom, so minus some for the fixed crossbar and the Z axis gantry, and however far the hot end projects below that, and however high up the bed will be. Between the posts is 11.25"

So height will be whatever space is left after mounting everything.

I haven't checked the bed for flatness. Are they usually pretty flat or do they need to be pressed under glass? I'm thinking of a metal vacuum platform to suck it down, like a vacuum forming table.

Got any sources for affordable ball screws? I'm leaning towards having them under tension with angular contact ball bearings at each end. I've read that a tensioned screw can be run up to 2x faster, or a smaller screw can be run as fast as a heavier, untensioned one. Normally not a need for real high speed in 3D printing, but time can be saved on rapid moves when not printing. I have some ideas for printing multiple copies or things.

I'm converting a JET 9x20 lathe to CNC and for the cross slide there's only room for a 5/16" ball screw. Definitely going to be putting a little 'stretch' on it to avoid having it flex. I was wanting to get a Denford ORAC lathe but after finding a site showing a complete teardown - those lathes are a Compact 8 clone and I can make the cross slide have more usable travel than what Denford did, and they only used an 8mm diameter screw, untensioned.

Statistics: Posted by Galane — Fri May 29, 2015 3:24 pm


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2015-05-29T08:28:47-06:00 2015-05-29T08:28:47-06:00 https://forums.openlabidaho.org/viewtopic.php?t=487&p=3157#p3157 <![CDATA[3D Printing / RepRap • Re: Yup, building a 3D printer, a very rigid one.]]>
What print volume are you targeting?

Randy

Statistics: Posted by steinra — Fri May 29, 2015 8:28 am


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2015-05-29T01:58:18-06:00 2015-05-29T01:58:18-06:00 https://forums.openlabidaho.org/viewtopic.php?t=487&p=3156#p3156 <![CDATA[3D Printing / RepRap • Yup, building a 3D printer, a very rigid one.]]>
https://www.flickr.com/photos/27748767@ ... ed-public/

When I saw that setting on the Reuseum floor all thoughts of using 4040 extrusion massively braced with corner plates and angle brackets flew right out of my head. Cost? $10.00 :)

Sliding action will be provided by a THK HSR30 rail for the bed and a THK HSR25 rail across the gantry. I already had four 85 oz/in motors so I got Sintron to delete 4 of the motors from their electronics kit, taking the price down to $159. Despite being pictured with a MK2B bed the kit shipped with an MK3, but no LEDs soldered on it. No assembly instructions either.
So now I have a box of parts and a frame and have begun machining work on the frame for mounting the rails. I plan on using ball screws to move everything, with belt reduction drive to the screws unless I get some pretty fine pitch ones.

I want this printer so tough I can fricking lean on it without anything flexing. ;) Might make a quick change mount to swap hot end and a high speed milling/engraving spindle. It shall laugh at hot cars... Saw that post on here. Ouch. Could print Salvador Dali inspired designs. :mrgreen:

Machine work is no problem. I have metal lathes (only 5 of them...) a PLM2000 CNC mill, an Emco knee mill that's pretty much exactly like a Grizzly G0731 and various other fun tools accumulated by my 76 year old father and 44 year old me over many years. One lathe, a 13" LeBlond "trainer" (lighter weight 'Roundhead' model from 1943) is in process of being fixed. The rest are operational. The other big machine is a 1990 Acra CNC knee mill with a 10x50" table, in process of a total electronics upgrade. It's currently stalled due to the 13" lathe being in the way.

After I get the mechanicals built, I'll likely need some help getting the firmware etc sorted so it'll be a 3D printer instead of just an assemblage of parts. Already have a Core 2 Quad computer built for slicing and dicing 3D and running the printer etc. Got a super deal on it, $0. Also $0 for the CPU which came in an otherwise defekt PC. The good box happened to be the variant of Dell Inspiron 530 that *is not* limited to dual core and only 4 gig RAM.

Statistics: Posted by Galane — Fri May 29, 2015 1:58 am


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2015-03-22T18:54:23-06:00 2015-03-22T18:54:23-06:00 https://forums.openlabidaho.org/viewtopic.php?t=373&p=3137#p3137 <![CDATA[3D Printing / RepRap • Re: Need to order Filament]]>
Randy

Statistics: Posted by steinra — Sun Mar 22, 2015 6:54 pm


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2015-03-21T01:26:35-06:00 2015-03-21T01:26:35-06:00 https://forums.openlabidaho.org/viewtopic.php?t=373&p=3136#p3136 <![CDATA[3D Printing / RepRap • Re: Need to order Filament]]> Statistics: Posted by billgate123 — Sat Mar 21, 2015 1:26 am


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